By Apurva Sinha
Early in the 13th century, a band of hardy hill men wandered around the Brahmaputra valley with an intent to establish political dominion. They were Ahoms, an offshoot of the great Tai (celestial origin) or Shan race who belonged to the northern and eastern hill tracts of Upper Burma and Western Yunnan (south-western China). Contemporary to Ahom migration in the Brahmaputra valley via Patkai hills, a major event occurred during the 12th to 14th century in South-East Asia. The decline of the Khmer dynasty began, which is marked by the Tai migration, and eventually they settled in an area to the north of their empire, roughly where China ends and Southeast Asia begins; the Yunnan.
The political control over the region of Brahmaputra valley by the Ahoms was established by Sukhapha, who journeyed down from Shweli River (located in Mongmao or the ancient kingdom of Pong) to the Brahmaputra. He reached the mouth of river Dikhow where he settled down at Chariadeo in 1253 CE. He referred to Assam as ‘Mungdunskukham’ (country-full-garden-gold) or the country full of golden gardens. Sukapha was the leader of the body of Shans who laid the foundation of the Ahom kingdom in Assam is a fact established, in the Buranji (written text of the period of Ahoms) as well as in folk traditions. Roughly the Ahom supremacy corresponds to five districts of Brahmaputra Valley Division, Kamarupa, Darrang, Nowgong, Sibsagar, Lakhimpur and portions of the Sadiya Frontier tract (presently in Arunachal Pradesh).
Cultures and communities have a long history of invincible interactions. Each historical entity has lore to share and an experience to impart. Throwing light on the architectural activities, the Kamarupa region experienced prolific building activities during the mighty Pala rulers that served a prime source of guide to the architectural ingenuity of the late medieval Assam. The building activities of 14th-15th century CE are unknown though one or two references are there in the Ahom chronicles about the construction of the temples, but no traces have been found.
Several factors influence the cultural framework of a dynasty like the cultural ties with the neighbouring states, matrimonial alliances, exchange of thoughts & ideas through missions and the influence of natural surroundings are some of the major features. The exposure of Ahoms to various traditional sects such as Hindu, Buddhist, Islam, Tibeto-Burman tribal cultures and different folk religious practices is well observed in their diverse socio-cultural life, architectural edifices and associated customary traditions.
The contribution of Ahom kings towards civil architecture is limited but varied probably because either their buildings were made out of impermanent or semi-permanent materials, as the local buildings heavily used timber as the basic building component. Ahom architecture can be divided into two categories- Religious structures (mainly temples) and secular structures (palaces, forts). The permanent phase of ‘non-religious’ architecture of the Ahoms evidently started with King Rudra Simha (1696-1714 CE). An advancement from the impermanent phase to innovative use of bricks in the structure is seen when Rudra Simha I imported an artisan called Ghanshyam from Kooch Behar (presently in Bengal) to design the grand edifices. Stylistically, an amalgamation of Hindu & Islamic elements is seen blended with Bengali ‘do-chala’ style (typical Bengali hut pattern) which is uniquely observed at the Ahom monuments of Rangpur, the capital city of the monarch (presently Sibsagar district).
Sibsagar, is situated on the confluence of the rivers Dihing and Lohit, is a land of architectural marvels decked into nature’s lap. The historical glimpses of foundations of Rangpur (ancient name of Sibsagar) depict chivalry, territorial expansion, and artistic subtlety. Ruminating on the Ahom monuments of Sibsagar, one glances upon the natural and cultural landscaping of the region. The natural settings provided a congenial environment for the Ahoms for permanent settlement, as they were relieved from the heavy floods in the upper Brahmaputra region. Considering the fact, the river Dikhow (that originates from the hills of Nagaland and meets Brahmaputra) divides the region of Sibsagar into two portions i.e. the right and left, and both the portions were socially & culturally established by the Ahom monarchs. One important factor of this settlement was the overland and river trade activities in which the river Dikhow played a vital role. Like, there was an active trade between Assam and its western borders, Bengal and Bihar, also with Bhutan, Tibet and Myanmar, possibly by the Patkai hills. Ahom Buranjis provide a testimony of Ahom-Naga relationship which was confined to tribes inhabiting hills south of Sibsagar and Lakhimpur districts from the Dikhow River to the Nurhi-Dihing. Thus, this culturally and economically productive region provided impetus for the architectural developments.
The early developmental works in the monuments can be seen in the region falling on the north of river Dikhow, and Chariadeo hills holds testimony for this fact. The region falling right of Dikhow was occupied first by the founder Sukapha and was subsequently inhabited. The earliest building activities mainly were at Garhgaon, which was made the capital of Ahoms by Suklenmung. He established his dominance by erecting a palace in 1540 CE, only wooden remains of which can be seen. In the later phase, it was reconstructed and enlarged by Rajesvarasingha in 1752 CE. This particular region comprises of the funerary monuments (Maidam) of the Ahom rulers which illuminates on their deep sense of connection with the ‘original land’.
Looking at the monumental development of the southern side of the river Dikhow, the credit goes to Rudrasingha I (1696-1714 CE) for developing Rangpur as the capital city of the Ahoms. After his coronation, he constructed a tank called, ‘Joysagar’, around which two temples of Vishnu and Siva was erected. The Satsari Buranji credit him for the construction of Talatal-ghar (originally of timber), a royal complex in Tengabari, later on which was reconstructed into a brick building with an extension of Kareng-ghar by Rajesvarasingha. The expansion of building activities from Joysagar tank to Tengabari started and this expansion led to building of monuments with exquisite architectural features such as Talatal-ghar, Rang-ghar and Gola-ghar.
Rangpur possess the largest of the genre of non-religious buildings built by the Ahoms, of which the Talatal-ghar (royal palace) is a lively example. Originally made out of timber during Rudrasingha I’s period, the Talatal-ghar holds a very important position in the Ahom history. The tradition has it that since the regime of Rudrasingha I, the royal palace was the coronation house for the Ahoms. The structure was reconstructed by using brick and lime by Rajesvarasingha. Aligned in north-south axis with annexes on either side, on plan Talatal-ghar consists of rows and columns (running from north to south and east to west) ornamented with multi-foliated arches, with some portions open and some closed on the ground floor, an open terrace with a temple on the east side alongside a mantrana-ghar (a conference room), and a palace of confinement on the western side. The feeble remains of the check post can also be seen on the terrace. A three- storeyed extension, called the ‘Kareng-ghar’ (the Kings residence) was the chief addition made by Rajesvarasingha.
Pondering upon the importance of the architectural elements, it would be appropriate to mention that it portrays an array of local features infused with the elements adopted from the surroundings (Islamic features and Bengali do-chala style). Talatal-ghar possesses all the palatial features, such as massive rooms on the ground floor to accommodate servants, animals and for storage. The terrace possesses an octagonal temple which is typically Ahom, a mantrana-ghar to carry out meetings with the administration and the ‘Kareng’- a palace for the King. The pot holes on the terrace are suggestive of the proposition that once upon a time, a superstructure surmounted on it. The complex has two tanks that sufficed the water needs, secondly, the moat running outside the complex acted as water reservoir, a marker of seclusion and a method to maintain the water table of the region. An important structure close to Talatal-ghar is the Gola-ghar. The ‘cottage type’ structure, which is in a well preserved state, was well designed for storing magazines and warfare materials. In close proximity with these two monuments is the Rang-ghar, which was constructed by Pramatasingha, the predecessor of Rajesvarasingha. Constructed as a royal pavilion, the two storeyed, structure is basically a rectangle with two trapezoidal rising into a boat shaped roof that gives the impression of a parabolic form. The structural details such as the arches, columns and pillars give a notion of its imitation of Islamic architecture. Used as a pleasurable spot, Rang-ghar was used by the monarch to witness outdoor games such as buffalo-fights, wrestling etc.
A sombre artistic fusion of Indo-Aryan, Islamic, Bengali and vernacular styles, Ahom architecture is unique in its own sense. The early edifices could remain untraceable due to the usage of impermanent building materials, and political instability. Later on, with territorial expansion, both religious and secular monuments were built. Tanks and roads were among the greatest contributions of the Ahoms. The setting of the region was enhanced by the development of architectural edifices; and every important aspect of planning a settlement was touched with precision i.e. security, basic requirements, administration schemes and recreational activities. Bringing the focus on the complete view of the region, it was water fed by the river Dikhow and the tanks that sufficed their agricultural needs, and was appropriately supported by the economic activities that nestled in the Assam-Naga hills.
